The WanderWise Guide to Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast
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Somewhere between the third glass of local pošip wine and the moment the sunset turned Dubrovnik's limestone walls the color of ripe peaches, you'll wonder why you didn't come here sooner.
Croatia has been one of Europe's worst-kept secrets for about a decade now. The Game of Thrones crowds came and, to some extent, went. The Instagram influencers snapped their photos on the Dubrovnik walls and moved on to the next thing. What remains is what was always there: a coastline so beautiful it physically hurts, medieval cities that make you feel like you stepped into a Renaissance painting, and a food-and-wine culture that rivals Italy's at a fraction of the pretension.
And here's what makes Croatia particularly appealing for travelers over 55: it's manageable. The country is compact — you can see the highlights in a week without the frantic pace that a trip to, say, Italy or Greece demands. The infrastructure is modern. English is widely spoken. The healthcare system is excellent. And while it uses the euro now (Croatia joined the eurozone in 2023), prices remain substantially lower than Western Europe for food, wine, and experiences.
For points-savvy travelers, Croatia presents a pleasant puzzle. There are no direct flights from the US, but the connecting options are excellent — and several of them unlock business class sweet spots that make the journey part of the experience. Hotels on points are thinner than in some destinations, but a hybrid strategy works beautifully here.
Let's map it out.
Getting There: Connecting Through Europe's Best Hubs
Croatia's main international airports — Dubrovnik (DBV), Split (SPU), and Zagreb (ZAG) — don't have nonstop service from the US. But that's actually a feature, not a bug: it means you'll connect through one of Europe's great airline hubs, and several of those connections offer outstanding business class products.
Turkish Airlines via Istanbul (IST)
Turkish Airlines operates one of the widest route networks in the world from its Istanbul hub, with direct flights to Dubrovnik, Split, and Zagreb. Their business class on long-haul routes features lie-flat seats, Turkish cuisine that wins actual awards, and a lounge in Istanbul (the Turkish Airlines Business Lounge) that has a movie theater, a spa, and a chef's station making fresh pide.
| Route | Program | Points (Round Trip) | Cash Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US → Dubrovnik/Split (via IST) | Turkish Miles&Smiles (via Citi TYP) | 90,000 | $3,500–$6,000 | Lie-flat on transatlantic leg; excellent Istanbul connection |
| US → Dubrovnik/Split (via IST) | United MileagePlus (via Chase UR) | 120,000–160,000 | $3,500–$6,000 | Can book Turkish metal as Star Alliance partner |
| US → Dubrovnik/Split (via IST) | Aeroplan (via Chase/Amex) | 100,000–130,000 | $3,500–$6,000 | Star Alliance award; sometimes better pricing than United |
The WanderWise move: Transfer Citi ThankYou Points to Turkish Miles&Smiles at a 1:1 ratio and book round-trip business class to Dubrovnik or Split for 90,000 miles. That's Turkish Airlines business class — one of the most underrated products in the sky — for points you earned on your Citi Premier or Citi Double Cash. Turkish Miles&Smiles keeps fuel surcharges low (often under $100), making the total out-of-pocket minimal.
Bonus: If you have a long layover in Istanbul, consider extending it to 24–48 hours. Istanbul is extraordinary — the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Grand Bazaar, a Bosphorus cruise — and Turkish Airlines offers a free "Touristanbul" guided tour program for passengers with layovers of 6+ hours. Free guided tour of one of the world's greatest cities, between your flights. Yes, really.
Lufthansa Group via Frankfurt or Munich
Lufthansa, Swiss, and Austrian Airlines (all part of the Lufthansa Group / Star Alliance) connect through Frankfurt, Munich, Zurich, and Vienna with onward flights to Croatian cities.
| Route | Program | Points (Round Trip) | Cash Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US → Dubrovnik (via FRA/MUC) | Aeroplan (via Chase/Amex) | 100,000–130,000 | $4,000–$7,000 | Lufthansa business on transatlantic leg |
| US → Split (via ZRH/VIE) | United MileagePlus (via Chase UR) | 120,000–176,000 | $4,000–$7,000 | Swiss or Austrian metal |
| US → Zagreb (via FRA) | Avianca LifeMiles (via Chase/Amex) | 87,000 | $4,000–$7,000 | Fixed rate; great value on Lufthansa |
The WanderWise move: Avianca LifeMiles at 87,000 miles round trip in business class is a steal for Lufthansa Group flights. Transfer Chase UR or Amex MR to LifeMiles. Lufthansa's newer business class (on A350s and 787s) is a significant improvement — fully lie-flat with direct aisle access. The Frankfurt or Munich connections are smooth and efficient (German engineering extends to airports, unsurprisingly).
Economy Class Options
| Route | Program | Points (Round Trip) | Cash Equivalent | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US → Dubrovnik/Split | United MileagePlus | 60,000–80,000 | $600–$1,100 | Via Frankfurt, Munich, or Istanbul |
| US → Croatian cities | Aeroplan | 50,000–70,000 | $600–$1,100 | Often better pricing than United |
| US → Croatian cities | Capital One Miles | Varies | Varies | Portal booking at 1¢/mile |
| US → Zagreb | Turkish Miles&Smiles | 45,000 | $600–$1,100 | Economy saver via Istanbul |
Pro tip: Fly into Dubrovnik and out of Split (or vice versa) to avoid backtracking. This "open jaw" itinerary is bookable on most programs at no extra cost and lets you work your way up or down the coast naturally. United MileagePlus and Aeroplan both allow open-jaw routing on partner awards.
Where to Stay: Hotels on Points Along the Coast
Croatia's hotel points landscape is evolving. You won't find the density of chain hotels you'd see in Italy or Spain, but several excellent options exist — and the hybrid strategy (points for some nights, cash for boutique stays) works brilliantly here because Croatian boutique hotels are gorgeous and remarkably affordable.
Dubrovnik Hotels on Points
| Hotel | Program | Points/Night | Cash Rate (Approx.) | Why We Love It |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik (Adriatic Luxury Hotels — Marriott partner) | Bonvoy | 40,000–60,000 | $300–$600 | Iconic seafront property with direct Old Town views; the Dubrovnik hotel |
| Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik | Hilton Honors | 50,000–80,000 | $300–$600 | Steps from Pile Gate; grand, historic, prime location |
| Hotel Lero (Hilton portfolio) | Hilton Honors | 25,000–40,000 | $120–$200 | Budget-friendly, short walk to Old Town |
| DoubleTree by Hilton Dubrovnik | Hilton Honors | 30,000–50,000 | $150–$300 | Reliable Hilton quality, good value |
The WanderWise move: The Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik is the power play. It's literally at the entrance to Dubrovnik's Old Town — step out the front door, walk 30 seconds, and you're through the Pile Gate into the Stradun, the marble-paved main street. The property is grand without being stuffy, and the terrace restaurant overlooking the walls is one of Dubrovnik's finest dining spots. At 50,000–80,000 Hilton Honors points per night, this is the kind of redemption where you look at the cash rate ($400–$600/night in summer) and quietly congratulate yourself.
Split Hotels on Points
| Hotel | Program | Points/Night | Cash Rate (Approx.) | Why We Love It |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Radisson Blu Resort Split | Radisson (via Chase portal) | N/A — book via portal | $150–$300 | Beachfront, modern, excellent pool |
| Le Méridien Lav Split | Bonvoy | 35,000–55,000 | $200–$400 | Resort-style property just south of Split; beach, pools, marina |
| Hotel Cornaro (IHG Vignette Collection) | IHG | 25,000–40,000 | $150–$300 | Central Split, steps from Diocletian's Palace |
The WanderWise move: Le Méridien Lav is the standout — a full resort property with multiple pools, a private beach, a spa, and gorgeous Adriatic views. It's a 15-minute drive from Split's center (free shuttle) but feels like a different world. At 35,000–55,000 Bonvoy points per night, it's outstanding value. If you're spending 2–3 nights in the Split area, this is your base.
Boutique Stays Worth the Cash
Croatia's boutique hotel scene is where the country truly shines — and where your cash goes surprisingly far:
- Hotel & Suites Kazbek (Dubrovnik): A 16th-century summer palace converted into a 13-room boutique hotel on Lapad Bay. Waterfront terrace, stone arches, €180–€300/night. Feels like a private villa.
- Heritage Hotel Antique Split: Inside Diocletian's Palace walls — you're literally sleeping in a Roman emperor's retirement home (more on that delicious irony in a moment). €150–€250/night.
- Riva Hvar Yacht Harbour Hotel (Hvar): Harborfront elegance on Hvar's main square. €200–€400/night in summer. Watch the yachts come and go from your balcony with a glass of local rosé.
- Lesic Dimitri Palace (Korčula): A boutique gem on the island rumored to be Marco Polo's birthplace. €250–€450/night. Five themed residences, each stunning.
What to See: A Coast Worth Savoring
Dubrovnik: The Pearl of the Adriatic
Yes, it was King's Landing. We'll get to that. But Dubrovnik was magnificent for five centuries before HBO's cameras showed up, and it'll be magnificent long after the last Game of Thrones tour wraps up.
Must-do experiences:
- Walk the city walls (the full 2km circuit). Go early morning — 8 AM when the gates open — to beat both crowds and heat. The views over terracotta rooftops and the impossibly blue Adriatic are the reason you came to Croatia. Allow 90 minutes. There are stairs — it's not fully flat — but the pace is gentle and there are rest stops with cold drinks along the way.
- Stradun stroll. The polished limestone main street, devastated by an earthquake in 1667 and rebuilt in uniform Baroque style. Get an early-morning coffee at a Stradun café before the cruise ship crowds arrive (they typically pour in around 10 AM and leave by 4 PM — plan accordingly).
- Cable car to Mount Srđ. The panoramic views from the top encompass the entire Old Town, Lokrum Island, and the Elafiti Islands. There's a restaurant at the summit. Go for sunset.
- Lokrum Island. A quick ferry (15 minutes from the Old Port) to a forested island with swimming spots, a botanical garden, a medieval Benedictine monastery, and yes — the Iron Throne from Game of Thrones sits in the monastery museum. Peacocks wander the paths. It's utterly charming.
The Game of Thrones angle: Look, you're going to see Game of Thrones tours everywhere in Dubrovnik. If you're a fan, they're genuinely fun — guides point out filming locations for the Walk of Shame, the Red Keep stairs, Blackwater Bay, and dozens of other spots. If you've never seen the show, you'll still enjoy Dubrovnik's history on its own extraordinary merits. The city survived a medieval republic, Napoleon, an earthquake, and a 1991 siege. It earned its beauty.
Split: Living Inside a Roman Palace
Split's Old Town isn't just "historic." It's literally built inside the walls of Diocletian's Palace — a Roman emperor's 4th-century retirement compound. (A Roman emperor retired to the Croatian coast. If that's not a WanderWise origin story, nothing is.)
Must-do experiences:
- Diocletian's Palace. Wander through the Peristyle (the central courtyard), explore the underground cellars (free of the garbage that accumulated for centuries — they're now a clean, atmospheric labyrinth), and find the Cathedral of St. Domnius, built inside Diocletian's own mausoleum. A Roman emperor's tomb, converted to a church, still in daily use 1,700 years later. History doesn't get more layered.
- Riva promenade. Split's waterfront walkway, lined with palm trees and cafés, is where locals and visitors promenade in the evening. Grab a table, order a gemišt (white wine spritzer — the local drink), and watch the world go by.
- Green Market (Pazar). Just outside the eastern palace wall, this daily market sells local produce, lavender products, olive oil, and dried figs. Come in the morning.
- Marjan Hill. A forested peninsula west of the Old Town with walking trails, medieval chapels, and panoramic views. The main viewpoint is reachable in a 20-minute moderate walk. Not strenuous, but wear proper shoes.
Hvar: The Yacht Week Alternative for Grown-Ups
Hvar has a reputation as Croatia's party island — and during peak summer, the harbor does fill with yacht week flotillas and DJ-fueled beach clubs. Here's the thing: that's one tiny corner of the island.
Step away from Hvar Town's harbor and you find lavender fields, ancient hilltop villages, secluded coves accessible by water taxi, and some of the best restaurants on the Adriatic coast. Hvar is the Mediterranean fantasy — sunny, aromatic, wine-soaked — and for travelers over 55, it's heavenly when you know where to look.
The WanderWise approach to Hvar:
- Skip Yacht Week timing (usually late June/early July). Visit in May, early June, or September when the weather is perfect, the lavender is blooming (June), and the party crowd hasn't arrived or has departed.
- Stay in Stari Grad instead of Hvar Town. Stari Grad is one of the oldest towns in Europe (founded by Greeks in 384 BC), quieter, more authentic, and home to the UNESCO-listed Stari Grad Plain — an ancient agricultural landscape that's been continuously cultivated for 2,400 years.
- Take a water taxi to the Pakleni Islands. This small archipelago just offshore from Hvar Town has crystal-clear swimming coves and rustic waterfront restaurants where you eat grilled fish someone caught that morning. Robinson Crusoe vibes, minus the survival anxiety.
- Wine tasting. Hvar produces exceptional wines — particularly the red Plavac Mali. Ivo Carić and Tomić Winery offer tastings in beautiful hilltop settings.
The WanderWise 7-Day Croatia Itinerary
Days 1–3: Dubrovnik
- Arrive: Fly into Dubrovnik via Turkish Airlines (Istanbul) or Lufthansa Group (Frankfurt/Munich)
- Stay: Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik (50,000–80,000 Hilton points/night) or Hotel Kazbek (cash boutique)
- Day 1: Rest and recover. Evening stroll along the Stradun for gelato. Welcome dinner at Nautika (Dubrovnik's finest, overlooking Pile Gate and the sea).
- Day 2: Morning walk of the city walls (8 AM start). Afternoon: Lokrum Island by ferry. Evening: cable car to Mount Srđ for sunset drinks.
- Day 3: Game of Thrones walking tour (morning, ~2 hours). Kayak tour around the walls (afternoon — gentler than it sounds, suitable for all fitness levels, and you see the walls from the sea). Farewell dinner in the Old Town.
Day 4: Dubrovnik → Split (Coastal Drive or Ferry)
- Option A: Rent a car and drive. The coastal road from Dubrovnik to Split (4–5 hours with stops) is one of Europe's great drives. You'll cross a sliver of Bosnia-Herzegovina (have your passport ready — it takes 10 minutes), pass through the charming town of Ston (famous for oysters — stop for lunch), and wind along the Makarska Riviera with jaw-dropping Adriatic views.
- Option B: Ferry. Jadrolinija operates a catamaran from Dubrovnik to Split (4.5 hours, €40–€60). Scenic and relaxing.
- Stay: Le Méridien Lav Split (35,000–55,000 Bonvoy points/night) or Heritage Hotel Antique (cash, in Old Town)
- Evening: Waterfront dinner on the Riva.
Days 5–6: Split and Hvar Day Trip
- Day 5: Morning exploring Diocletian's Palace. Afternoon at Marjan Hill or the beaches at Bačvice. Evening: dinner at Dvor (cliffside restaurant with Adriatic views just outside Split).
- Day 6: Day trip to Hvar Island. Fast catamaran from Split (1 hour). Spend the day exploring Hvar Town's fortress, Stari Grad's lanes, or a Pakleni Islands swimming excursion. Return to Split in the evening — or, if you fall in love with Hvar (likely), stay overnight at Riva Hvar and catch the morning boat back.
Day 7: Split Departure
- Morning: Last walk through Diocletian's Palace. Coffee on the Riva. Pick up lavender sachets and olive oil at the Green Market as gifts.
- Depart: Fly out of Split via Istanbul, Frankfurt, or Munich. Business class, naturally — and already planning your return.
Points Budget: What This Trip Actually Costs
| Category | Redemption | Points (for two) | Cash Equivalent |
|---|---|---|---|
| Business class flights (US → DBV, SPU → US) | Turkish Miles&Smiles or LifeMiles | 174,000–180,000 | $7,000–$12,000 |
| Dubrovnik hotel (3 nights) | Hilton Honors | 150,000–240,000 | $900–$1,800 |
| Split hotel (3 nights) | Marriott Bonvoy | 105,000–165,000 | $600–$1,200 |
| Total on points | 429,000–585,000 (mixed programs) | $8,500–$15,000 |
The WanderWise move: Croatia is a trip where the hybrid strategy shines. Use points for business class flights (the biggest cash savings) and for one anchor hotel. Then let cash cover the rest — because Croatian boutique hotels, restaurants, and experiences are genuinely affordable. A spectacular dinner for two with wine in Dubrovnik or Split: €60–€100. That same meal in Positano: €200+. Your points savings on flights fund an extraordinary on-the-ground experience.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to visit Croatia?
May–June and September–early October. July and August are peak season — hot, crowded, and expensive (particularly Dubrovnik, which limits cruise ship arrivals but still feels packed). Late May and September offer warm swimming weather (75–85°F), manageable crowds, and lower hotel rates. June brings lavender season on Hvar.
Is Croatia walkable for older travelers?
Yes, with one caveat: Dubrovnik's Old Town is compact but has steep stairs in places, and the city walls walk includes significant stair sections. Split's Old Town is largely flat. Hvar Town has a steep fortress climb (optional) but the waterfront is flat. Croatia is more manageable than, say, the Amalfi Coast or Santorini.
Do I need to speak Croatian?
No. English is widely spoken throughout coastal Croatia, especially in tourist areas. Younger Croatians are almost universally fluent. Learning a few words (hvala = thank you, dobar dan = good day) is appreciated but not necessary.
What about the currency?
Croatia adopted the euro in January 2023. Credit cards are accepted virtually everywhere in tourist areas. ATMs are plentiful. No currency exchange headaches.
Is Game of Thrones tourism still a thing?
It is, but it's evolved from a frenzy to a pleasant addition. Guided tours are well-run and informative even for non-fans (they cover Dubrovnik's actual history too). The Iron Throne replica on Lokrum Island makes for a fun photo. But Dubrovnik's real history — the Republic of Ragusa, the 1991 siege, the earthquake reconstruction — is far more fascinating than any fictional kingdom.
Croatia is what happens when the Mediterranean does everything right — the water, the stone cities, the wine, the warmth — but forgot to charge Western European prices. It's the kind of place where you sit on a harbor wall at golden hour, watch the ferries come in, and think: this is exactly the retirement moment I've been working toward. Your points handle the getting there. Croatia handles the rest.
Ready to plan your Dalmatian Coast adventure? Take the WanderWise Travel Score Quiz to see how your points stack up, or download our free Croatia on Points Planner PDF with day-by-day itineraries, ferry schedules, and restaurant recommendations.